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TRAVEL ADVENTURES:

Learning to Surf  

For the past 16 years I have lived near some of the most famous surf breaks.  Yet, I have never surfed.  I love the sound of the ocean with its sparkling waters, dancing mammals and plunging birds, but I kept my distance.  I resisted the calling.  The ocean scared me.  I didn’t like the thought of what lurked below.  As the summer came to an end, I vowed to my two sons that we would learn to surf. I arranged for Chris Keets of Surf Happens to take us on our surfing journey.

His enthusiastic teaching style and joyful nature helped to ease my nerves.  By the time we had our beach lesson and had practiced a few stances on our soft boards, we were eager to don our wet suits and head into the ocean. We paddled out beyond the waves and straddled our boards waiting for our instructions. 

Chris held the back of my board and propelled me forward. I felt myself in the wave.  I pushed myself up and steadied my legs.  I stretched out my arms and actually balanced.  Within seconds I tumbled into the ocean filling my mouth with salty water.  I swam toward shore, pushing the board in front of me.  With my feet firmly rooted in the sand, I watched the boys catch their first waves.  We spent the morning connecting with the ocean and its waves and connecting as a family.  I added my first surfing experience to my list of memorable adventures.

 



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